would this fit my MH 88 polo coupe (mrk2)?

sorry heres the link to my question

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alternator-VW-...QQcmdZViewItem

"essexgirl" wrote in message
...
would this fit my MH 88 polo coupe (mrk2)?

Err, what? If it was a photo, it's been removed.

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
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"essexgirl" wrote in message
...
would this fit my MH 88 polo coupe (mrk2)?

It's not on the list, so I would guess not. Yours should have a 55 Amp
alternator, and I'm not sure the securing method is the same. Also, it probably
has a different connector. gsfcarparts.com seems to confirm 55amp for yours.
Are you having trouble with it?

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
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"essexgirl" wrote in message
...
sorry heres the link to my question


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alternator-VW-...QQcmdZViewItem

"essexgirl" wrote in message
...
would this fit my MH 88 polo coupe (mrk2)?

Dave Hall wrote:
It's not on the list, so I would guess not. Yours should have a 55 Amp
alternator, and I'm not sure the securing method is the same. Also, it probably
has a different connector. gsfcarparts.com seems to confirm 55amp for yours.
Are you having trouble with it?

I think it would probably fit, but I'd advise against a lower Ah rating,
as it might noy be sufficient to keep the battery charged if you have
all the electrics on.

If you're having problems with it the best solution is to remove yours
and take it to an auto-eletrical rebuilders and have the recondition it.
They'll usually do it in a couple of hours or so.

I think it would probably fit, but I'd advise against a lower Ah rating,
as it might noy be sufficient to keep the battery charged if you have
all the electrics on.


The old ones (pre 85?) have a multi-connector; the later have screw eyes on the
wiring. You would need to adapt the wiring, and get the older plug to add to
your loom. The old ones had a through bolt for mounting, the later have a
slotted mount on the alternator and use a captive bolt. I think this might be a
problem too. Either way it's irrelevant really as the rating is too low to be
sensible.

If your alternator is giving trouble, cleaning it thoroughly and checking the
brushes for wear /replacing is possibly all it needs, unless an over-tight belt
has upset the bearings and it's (g)rumbling..

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------

Dave Hall wrote:
I think it would probably fit, but I'd advise against a lower Ah rating,
as it might noy be sufficient to keep the battery charged if you have
all the electrics on.



The old ones (pre 85?) have a multi-connector; the later have screw eyes on the
wiring. You would need to adapt the wiring, and get the older plug to add to
your loom. The old ones had a through bolt for mounting, the later have a
slotted mount on the alternator and use a captive bolt. I think this might be a
problem too. Either way it's irrelevant really as the rating is too low to be
sensible.

If your alternator is giving trouble, cleaning it thoroughly and checking the
brushes for wear /replacing is possibly all it needs, unless an over-tight belt
has upset the bearings and it's (g)rumbling..

I hadn't realised they changed the mounting/connector- now you mention
it, all the small-engined (0.9-1.3) VW's I've done much work on were
1984 or earlier.....

Photo is there m8. if u cant see it then u have to sort out ur internet
browser settings.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Alternator-VW-...QQcmdZViewItem
OK guys this is the low-down. Alternator started going intermittent ( more
so when warm ). Battery light flickering on n off dimly then staying on full
going off again n coming back on. It was kinda risky to drive it like that
but a few days of it and it soon conked out, battery dead etc etc etc u know
the drill lol. Anyway as them damn things are a pricey component to replace
( recon or new ) especially at this time of year I took it off and checked
it. One of the brushes was half size of the other one so. So my conclusion
was clean it up, throw a new regulator with brushes onto it and I should be
back in business. So thats what i done. Part from GSF. All fitted and belt
tensioned to requirable tension. Also had to de-thaw the car out due to the
big 2 days of freeze I had here too. So i had the car idling for best part
of an hour on and off (switched off to check top n bottom hoses etc) make
sure water was circulating ok. So with lights on n off occasionally in that
hour, rear demister on, interior blower heater on the battery light stayed
off and appeared to have been getting a charge from the alternator. So i
took it for a test drive. Drove for about roughly 10 miles. Battery charge
lamp slowly started flickering dimly. So hopeing it would be low revs I
increased the revs expecting it to go out. But it was back to the original
problem even with a new regulator and brushes. So following day i took the
alternator off expecting to see a broken brush or 2 or some sign on the
brushes. The brushes were fine with no visible signs of burning or whatever.
So my own conclusion is either:
A: The regulator blew ( why i have no idea )
B: the bearings in it are worn and the rings werent making contact with
brushes adequatly enough when driving about (movement, bumps etc)
C: a mixture of both the above.
The alternator is only about a year old and WAS a re-con cost me more than
it should have at the time. Im in glasgow area and dont know of any places
that i can go to get it re-conditioned. Can somebody out there suggest
somewhere in glasgow if possible where to take it to. Since i couldnt figure
out what the problem was with it and didnt want to carry on messing with it
n refitting it I managed to get one at the local scrappy. Scrappy is always
a hit n miss thing with things like that for the car but thankfully this was
a hit. Cost me £12 and is 100% So im mobile again and wouldnt mind getting
this other alternator re-conned if possible and also finding out exactly
what the problem was/is with it. Another thing im going to mention here now
aswell is something i have left until the end of this post so u dont read
the post saying to urself ( oh thats what it is causing it then ). I
replaced the complete dash clocks few yrs ago as old ones had bad
connections for blowing the dash bulbs. When i put the new one in I changed
the mileage exactly to what was on the original clocks were so as to keep
myself right with the cars mileage more so than for any other reason as i am
holding onto this car for good myself. I noticed the speedo needle would
sometimes stick. Not that often but if i noticed it taking off from lights
or whatever a little tap on the dash face with my fingers would flick it
back into life. My question about this IS could a sticking speedo needle
cause excessive load on the alternator for any reason. The speedo cable is
defenetely NOT loose going into the clock. The needle is probably sticking a
little due to the MPH dial plate a little lifted no doubt. I have since
disabled the speedo cable until i think more about this. Yes i know the
legallities of that ok but since i do not plan to sell it and am keeping a
note on paper of my journeys ( so i can get it put back on when i do
re-connect it back up ). A long reply to my own post but now i have shed
some more light on what my original post was all about in the first place.
Fingeres crossed this scrappy alternator keeps me happy over the winter lol.
Some input back on this would be much appreciated guys. Thanx.

Essexgirl


"Dave Hall" wrote in message
...
Err, what? If it was a photo, it's been removed.

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
"essexgirl" wrote in message
...
would this fit my MH 88 polo coupe (mrk2)?

Since i couldnt figure
out what the problem was with it and didnt want to carry on messing with it
n refitting it I managed to get one at the local scrappy. Scrappy is always
a hit n miss thing with things like that for the car but thankfully this was
a hit. Cost me £12 and is 100%

Speedo needle sticking won't affect anything at all, unless you hit something
outside the car while tapping it and watching to see if it unsticks! Having
replaced my instrument panel when trying to get the temp gauge working, my
needle wobbles at low speed - it may be something to do with the inner part of
the speedo cable.

My son had just the same sort of thing as you recently on his Mk 3, and measured
the output at 15.5 Volts, so assumed regulator trouble - paid £10 for another
from GSF. Made no difference - I tested the output with my meter and it read
12V - not that my meter is an expensive one (£5), just that he now knows his one
reads about 3.5V high!

May have been due to shorting of the windings.
Sometimes the exciter wire - thin blue one - isn't making good contact.
Occasionally it's the bulb in the warning light that has blown, but I think the
newer stuff has a different system, so don't trust me on that.

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
"essexgirl" wrote in message
...

On that note dave would you reccomend re-connecting my speedo cable up then.
I assumed the battery charge lamp since its in the same circuit ( or same
dash cluster) that there was a possibility of the sticky speedo needle
causing it. Maybe not. Im just speculating. The car stereo wouldnt have
anything to do with it would it? If there was a problem with the car stereo
in any way electrical then the fuse would go puting the stereo and the
interior light off wouldnt it? I have read since posting about this that the
blue wire wears away from the diode/windings inside the alternator and some
people have been succesfull in pushing the wire in when testing. tbh its a
pain in the ass and a real time waster messing about with intermittent
faults especially electrical ones on alternators. This is also not a good
time of year to put money out for parts either lol. Spent the morning
driving around today giving it another good run. Good ole scrappy alternator
doing its job. Since its a bosch i imagine its a bit more reliable than any
cut price re-cons. You can let me know ur input on th espeedo thing dave.
Cheers.

Essexgirl


"Dave Hall" wrote in message
. ..
Since i couldnt figure
out what the problem was with it and didnt want to carry on messing with
it
n refitting it I managed to get one at the local scrappy. Scrappy is
always
a hit n miss thing with things like that for the car but thankfully this
was
a hit. Cost me £12 and is 100%

Speedo needle sticking won't affect anything at all, unless you hit
something
outside the car while tapping it and watching to see if it unsticks!
Having
replaced my instrument panel when trying to get the temp gauge working, my
needle wobbles at low speed - it may be something to do with the inner
part of
the speedo cable.

My son had just the same sort of thing as you recently on his Mk 3, and
measured
the output at 15.5 Volts, so assumed regulator trouble - paid £10 for
another
from GSF. Made no difference - I tested the output with my meter and it
read
12V - not that my meter is an expensive one (£5), just that he now knows
his one
reads about 3.5V high!

May have been due to shorting of the windings.
Sometimes the exciter wire - thin blue one - isn't making good contact.
Occasionally it's the bulb in the warning light that has blown, but I
think the
newer stuff has a different system, so don't trust me on that.

--
Dave.
UK VW Type 3 & 4 Club
http://www.hallvw.clara.co.uk/
------
"essexgirl" wrote in message
...