"SteveH" wrote in message
. ..
Doki wrote:

Also is it ok to leave the primer on whilst still using the car
(bumpers
on car now) would rain affect the primer ? or basecoat without the
laquer
obviously ?

It'll be fine with just primer. I'd not leave base too long without clear
over the top, although normal clear offers little UV protection.

Primer isn't waterproofed - so if you don't get it covered over, water
will get into it and you'll end up having to sand it back and start
again.

DAMHIKIJDOK.

Yebbut it's on a MK4 Golf bumper. Which last time I checked was made out of
plastic.

"James" wrote in message
...

Great stuff.

I found this doodahh on www.ebay.co.uk Item number: 150240028930 and
wondered if you'd ever given it a go ? and if its worth a go ?

I haven't, but I suspect that if it works, it will be worth having. Remember
to always start triggering early with an aerosol to avoid splats.

Adrian wrote:
Chris Bartram gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

Primer isn't waterproofed - so if you don't get it covered over, water
will get into it and you'll end up having to sand it back and start
again.

Probably be ok if you warm it to dry it thoroughly. After all, you
wet-flat primer...It's a big problem with metal underneath though, as it
rusts.

Pffft.

The new screen surround and rear valance put on the Acad last spring have
been absolutely fine left in primer through the winter.

Which reminds me - I must order some of Screwfix's finest fiver-per-litre
red lead oxide, and some more cheap brushes.
I reckon red oxide is less affected- it's just what I've been told
mostly, though I did get badly caught out with grey primer on a very
damp day repainting the door of my Golf (telephone pole outside my
drive, all my own fault) and trapped a load of moisture under the
topcoat. It rusted a few weeks later, staining the white paint.

Chris Bartram gurgled happily, sounding
much like they were saying:

Primer isn't waterproofed - so if you don't get it covered over,
water will get into it and you'll end up having to sand it back and
start again.

Probably be ok if you warm it to dry it thoroughly. After all, you
wet-flat primer...It's a big problem with metal underneath though, as
it rusts.

Pffft.

The new screen surround and rear valance put on the Acad last spring
have been absolutely fine left in primer through the winter.

Which reminds me - I must order some of Screwfix's finest
fiver-per-litre red lead oxide, and some more cheap brushes.

I reckon red oxide is less affected-

What's on there isn't red oxide - it's sprayed yellowey-beige primer.

it's just what I've been told
mostly, though I did get badly caught out with grey primer on a very
damp day repainting the door of my Golf (telephone pole outside my
drive, all my own fault) and trapped a load of moisture under the
topcoat. It rusted a few weeks later, staining the white paint.

Mmm. Slightly different kettle of fish...

"Mike G" wrote in message
news:NIGdnd676eNWUL3VnZ2dnUVZ8vCdnZ2d@plusnet...

"James" wrote in message
...

I found this doodahh on www.ebay.co.uk Item number: 150240028930 and
wondered if you'd ever given it a go ? and if its worth a go ?

I've used something similar in the past. Definitely makes cans easier to
use than a finger on the spray head, but whether it's worth £4.44 for the
ease and convenience is up to you.
Mike.


I thought it looked like wortha go, my paint factors had them for £2.99,
I'll pick one up when I get a chance.

Adrian wrote:



Mmm. Slightly different kettle of fish...
Yeah. more making the point about making sure it's dry before
topcoating. It was a real ****er to have to do it again, as it looked
ok, even from rattlecans.

"James" wrote in message
...
In relation to my other thread from a few days ago about painting my
bumper. I have primed it with aerosol paint from paint factors, so far
with high build primer, rubbed it down and smoothed it up nicely. Showed a
few niggles and imperfections that were soon sorted followed by some more
high build primer. I've put 2 coats on, just wondering how many is
nescearry ? Tommorow I will put the regular primer on and rub down again
again how many coats ? Then following day the base then laquer (just after
some info on how many coats to be honest)

Also is it ok to leave the primer on whilst still using the car (bumpers
on car now) would rain affect the primer ? or basecoat without the laquer
obviously ?

What paint did you get in the end, out of interest? My local paint factors
will now only do synthetic or water based in rattle cans. Or some variety of
catalysed paint, if really needed, but obviously that's got a rather short
shelf life.

"Doki" wrote in message
...

"James" wrote in message
...
In relation to my other thread from a few days ago about painting my
bumper. I have primed it with aerosol paint from paint factors, so far
with high build primer, rubbed it down and smoothed it up nicely. Showed
a few niggles and imperfections that were soon sorted followed by some
more high build primer. I've put 2 coats on, just wondering how many is
nescearry ? Tommorow I will put the regular primer on and rub down again
again how many coats ? Then following day the base then laquer (just
after some info on how many coats to be honest)

Also is it ok to leave the primer on whilst still using the car (bumpers
on car now) would rain affect the primer ? or basecoat without the laquer
obviously ?

What paint did you get in the end, out of interest? My local paint factors
will now only do synthetic or water based in rattle cans. Or some variety
of catalysed paint, if really needed, but obviously that's got a rather
short shelf life.

Alright Doki,

The place I went would only do water based based as of some new law he said,
he also said it isn't too bad stuff. He said ideally you'd be best getting a
bodyshop to do it with 2pack stuff. But I said I was doing it on the cheap.
They came in 500ml cans for £9.

I spent a few evenings so far prepping it. All nice and flat and begging for
some paint

I had to rub a few spots down which went right down to the plastic (black in
colour, guess this is the abs stuff). All scot padded and washed, will panel
wipe it before though.

While your about I had a quick question, on the patches I rubbed right the
way down do I need to apply some kind of plastic primer to it ? or can I
just spray the high build primer straight on ?

When I get the high build primer on do I use 800 or 1200 grit wet and dry ?

Thanks

"James" wrote in message
...

"Doki" wrote in message
...

"James" wrote in message
...
In relation to my other thread from a few days ago about painting my
bumper. I have primed it with aerosol paint from paint factors, so far
with high build primer, rubbed it down and smoothed it up nicely. Showed
a few niggles and imperfections that were soon sorted followed by some
more high build primer. I've put 2 coats on, just wondering how many is
nescearry ? Tommorow I will put the regular primer on and rub down again
again how many coats ? Then following day the base then laquer (just
after some info on how many coats to be honest)

Also is it ok to leave the primer on whilst still using the car (bumpers
on car now) would rain affect the primer ? or basecoat without the
laquer obviously ?

What paint did you get in the end, out of interest? My local paint
factors will now only do synthetic or water based in rattle cans. Or some
variety of catalysed paint, if really needed, but obviously that's got a
rather short shelf life.

Alright Doki,

The place I went would only do water based based as of some new law he
said, he also said it isn't too bad stuff. He said ideally you'd be best
getting a bodyshop to do it with 2pack stuff. But I said I was doing it on
the cheap. They came in 500ml cans for £9.

I spent a few evenings so far prepping it. All nice and flat and begging
for some paint

I had to rub a few spots down which went right down to the plastic (black
in colour, guess this is the abs stuff). All scot padded and washed, will
panel wipe it before though.

While your about I had a quick question, on the patches I rubbed right the
way down do I need to apply some kind of plastic primer to it ? or can I
just spray the high build primer straight on ?

When I get the high build primer on do I use 800 or 1200 grit wet and dry
?

Plastic primer is needed for any areas of exposed plastic. Doesn't matter if
it's new or old or if it's been scotched and panel wiped (although you
should always scotch and panel wipe...).

The way I'd do it is to try and keep the plastic primer to areas of bare
plastic, but not worry too much, then put my build primer on, let that dry
for a good while if you've got the time. Best way to do it would be to get
the bumper off the car and in the sun, but it won't *really* heat up because
it's silver. You could always try a hairdrier on it. Anything to make sure
that the thinners have been driven out of the primer and it isn't going to
sink back. As it's aerosol paint, it'll be fairly thin so it should dry
quickly (as a rule, more thinner = faster drying, because the paint goes on
in a thinner layer and the thinners have less paint to get through to
evaporate - if you lather paint on thick without much thinners, you tend to
get the surface drying well with what's below that staying wet for a good
while).
I'd gently sand with 800 grit wet after a couple of coats of primer, making
sure you blend it into the rest of the panel whilst you're sanding.

For the final coat or two of primer, I'd sand with 1200 or more to be sure
that the topcoat will cover the sanding marks.

As for the topcoats, you want the primer to be well dried, put your water
based colour on, try and get as even coverage as possible - see the DeVilbis
ABC of finishing guide (available freely as a PDF) for some idea of spraying
technique.

Then you need to make sure that the top coat is dried - in sunny weather
waterbased will dry fast IME, but I've been using burgundy which heats up a
lot in the sun. You may find a hairdrier helps. It's quite a different
experience to using solvent based paint, and my advice would be to
experiment. Try priming and spraying a sheet of card to get some idea of how
to apply it.

The next step is to put your lacquer on. Do not sand the colour coat, and
ignore any advice about waiting for the colour coat to "flash off" and then
lacquering it. That'd work fine if you were using solvent based paint and
clear, but your paint is waterbased. Once your lacquer is on, a can of fade
out thinners wafted around the edges will save you a lot of time in sanding
and polishing to blend the repair in.

As a rule, the way I'd apply paint is like this: prime the bits that need
priming, spray colour on the primed areas and around an inch outside that
area, then another extra inch with the clear. If I were you, I'd try and get
the bumper off rather than try to spray without experience in an
uncomfortable position - you should also be able to move the bumper around
to make sure you're spraying onto a vaguely level surface, and avoid runs.

Another important thing is not to sand your colour coat - it doesn't work
with metallics and the area ends up looking rather different in colour to
how it started...