![]() |
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
| uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) (uk.rec.cars.maintenance) |
|
|
Trackback | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
Conor wrote:
On 10/03/2010 11:06, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: You have to use guile when carrying this out with some cars as the inrush current when connecting the battery can blow the DVM fuse. Only if its a bag of **** you bought from the Pound Shop. there is often a very healthy crackle when connecting the battery, some vehicles fire the central locking, so the initial current can be far higher than is safe even for expensive multi-meters, and in any case why risk it? just connect the meter to the battery terminal, hold the battery lead against the terminal and connect the other meter lead to the battery lead, separate the battery lead from the battery keeping one meter lead on the battery terminal and the other on the battery lead, simples. read battery drain with little risk to anything. |
|
|||
|
It happens that Conor formulated :
On 10/03/2010 11:06, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: You have to use guile when carrying this out with some cars as the inrush current when connecting the battery can blow the DVM fuse. Only if its a bag of **** you bought from the Pound Shop. Rubbish! Some cars can take quite a bit of initial in rush current when the battery is first connected, more than enough to wreck a meter set on a 2amp range. If there is any substantial discharge, as in a fault, then the meter is still at risk. Rather than using a meter for the first test, safer would be to insert a low wattage lamp in series with the battery lead to see if it passes enough to light it up - say a 16w indicator lamp, or a 5w tail lamp. The best way is to short the meter terminals out until it has settled and make sure no doors are opened or lights are turned on with the meter in line. 35mA - ish is about right, though some cars may initially show more and the current required decreases over the first 30 minutes as things gradually shut down. It might also be worth checking the voltage across the battery with engine running, with various loads on and not running, to make sure it is getting a good charge. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
|
|||
|
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:28:33 -0000, Mrcheerful
wrote: GB wrote: Actually, you can trace the current drain quite easily and quite specifically - without disconnecting the battery. 1. switch everything off 2. open fuse block lid 3. take out one fuse and connect ammeter leads across the socket - make a note of the current if significant 4. replace fuse 5. rinse and repeat that would not trace one of the most common drains: the alternator I'm fairly certain that's not very common, it's just very troublesome. -- Duncan Wood |
|
|||
|
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 16:22:44 -0000, Conor wrote:
On 10/03/2010 11:06, Dave Plowman (News) wrote: You have to use guile when carrying this out with some cars as the inrush current when connecting the battery can blow the DVM fuse. Only if its a bag of **** you bought from the Pound Shop. The pound shop don't sell spare fuses for Fluke 867s so either your accounts been hijacked by the Tiscali idiot or you've lost it. -- Duncan Wood |
|
|||
|
Duncan Wood wrote:
that would not trace one of the most common drains: the alternator I'm fairly certain that's not very common, it's just very troublesome. It would certainly trace the light in the boot and all that sort of problem. In fact, I first did this over 40 years ago, when I had just learnt about electricity at school. By the time I located the problem (light in the boot ofc), my dad had already been sold a new battery and dynamo by the garage. If I hadn't found it, I think they'd have sold him a new car. -- Electric cars are very healthy - when the battery runs out you have to walk home. |
|
|||
|
In article ,
Conor wrote: You have to use guile when carrying this out with some cars as the inrush current when connecting the battery can blow the DVM fuse. Only if its a bag of **** you bought from the Pound Shop. Shows how much you know about such things. Oh - I suggest you look up how much a fuse costs for a Fluke DVM... -- *Remember, no-one is listening until you fart.* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
|||
|
In article ,
Harry Bloomfield wrote: Some cars can take quite a bit of initial in rush current when the battery is first connected, more than enough to wreck a meter set on a 2amp range. I've had the fuse go on the 10 amp range... -- *Middle age is when it takes longer to rest than to get tired. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
|||
|
On Mar 10, 9:31*am, paulfoel wrote:
If it is, how do I find out what? Isolate the different circuits in turn in the following order until the excess current stops. Pull out each fuse in turn. Pull out each relay in turn. Remove the plug in the back of the alternator. (Usually involves accessing from underside of car) |
|
|||
|
GB used his keyboard to write :
It would certainly trace the light in the boot and all that sort of problem. In fact, I first did this over 40 years ago, when I had just learnt about electricity at school. By the time I located the problem (light in the boot ofc), my dad had already been sold a new battery and dynamo by the garage. If I hadn't found it, I think they'd have sold him a new car. The easy test is to open the boot, feel the light and if it is warm - it is staying on. Though some cars are fitted with a battery saver relay, these turn of the supplies to such things around 30 minutes after the car has been left undisturbed for that length of time. In other words leave it parked in the garage with a door open, the interior light should go out after 30 minutes and not come back on unless you close then reopen the door. -- Regards, Harry (M1BYT) (L) http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk |
|
|||
|
paulfoel wrote:
Battery is always pretty much flat every morning - car starts just about. However, once its started in the morning its pretty much ok for the rest of the day. Sorry for being thick, but can I use a multimeter to see if anything is draining the battery? If it is, how do I find out what? It's far more likely to be a shagged battery than a leak. The volts across them drop due to the overnight cold especially at this time of year. |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|