Oh dear - Squeeky.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP-XxL90gEg

Anyway, I had it apart and I find a completely dry bearing - not the
slightest whiff of grease!

See he
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4719246...t-721576234621
42046/

To make my description easier I've extracted the exploded diagram from
the parts book:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/docs...suspension.pdf

My problem is the hub (part 29) is slightly damaged so setting the
endfloat is a bit tricky. The largest available shim (part 35) is
0.151" (3.84mm) which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160"
(4.05mm) shim to get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou).

Is the hub (pressed steel wheel type) off an XJ6 the same as the S
type? Does anyone have one to sell (either the S type or XJ6 if it
fits)?

What are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat of
12 thou?

--
Simon

sweller wrote:
Oh dear - Squeeky.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vP-XxL90gEg

Anyway, I had it apart and I find a completely dry bearing - not the
slightest whiff of grease!

See he
http://www.flickr.com/photos/4719246...t-721576234621
42046/

To make my description easier I've extracted the exploded diagram from
the parts book:
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/docs...suspension.pdf

My problem is the hub (part 29) is slightly damaged so setting the
endfloat is a bit tricky. The largest available shim (part 35) is
0.151" (3.84mm) which gives an end float of 12 thou - I need a 0.160"
(4.05mm) shim to get an endfloat of 4 thou (range is 2 to 6 thou).

Is the hub (pressed steel wheel type) off an XJ6 the same as the S
type? Does anyone have one to sell (either the S type or XJ6 if it
fits)?

What are the short and long term effects of running with an endfloat
of 12 thou?

could the hub be machined to get the endfloat nearer? Get a special shim
made or try bearing shops. use two thinner shims.

is the plug in the top of the housing for filling with oil?

Mrcheerful wrote:

could the hub be machined to get the endfloat nearer?

The hub has been worn by the dry bearing and is now too short -
machining would make it shorter.


Get a special shim made or try bearing shops.

There's BRT bearings near me - they may be able to help.


use two thinner shims.

The ones from the Jaguar specialists (it's still the same suspension as
on the XJ6!) don't come thin enough but would it be feasible to get one
ground down.

I assume the shims need to be hardened.


is the plug in the top of the housing for filling with oil?

Grease - but had been, ahem, overlooked.

--
Simon

On 09/03/2010 10:40, sweller wrote:
Mrcheerful wrote:

could the hub be machined to get the endfloat nearer?

The hub has been worn by the dry bearing and is now too short -
machining would make it shorter.


Get a special shim made or try bearing shops.

There's BRT bearings near me - they may be able to help.


use two thinner shims.

The ones from the Jaguar specialists (it's still the same suspension as
on the XJ6!) don't come thin enough but would it be feasible to get one
ground down.

I assume the shims need to be hardened.


I don't see why they need to be hardened. All they are doing is to be a
spacer. I made some some years ago by grinding a large washer to the
right thickness, by hand. It's been perfect for three years now. You
could make one by cutting a piece of sheet steel that's the right
thickness into a shim shape.

Rob Graham

On Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:31:05 -0000, Rob Graham
wrote:

On 09/03/2010 10:40, sweller wrote:
Mrcheerful wrote:

could the hub be machined to get the endfloat nearer?

The hub has been worn by the dry bearing and is now too short -
machining would make it shorter.


Get a special shim made or try bearing shops.

There's BRT bearings near me - they may be able to help.


use two thinner shims.

The ones from the Jaguar specialists (it's still the same suspension as
on the XJ6!) don't come thin enough but would it be feasible to get one
ground down.

I assume the shims need to be hardened.


I don't see why they need to be hardened. All they are doing is to be a
spacer. I made some some years ago by grinding a large washer to the
right thickness, by hand. It's been perfect for three years now. You
could make one by cutting a piece of sheet steel that's the right
thickness into a shim shape.


Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it should move
relative to it.

Rob Graham


--
Duncan Wood

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Duncan Wood"
saying something like:

Jag rear spacer

Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it should move
relative to it.

It is loaded and the hub touches it, especially when cornering. It's
what keeps the bearings upright and free from eventual collapse by
stopping the hub floating in and out. A hardened one would be good.

On Wed, 17 Mar 2010 01:01:58 -0000, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Duncan Wood"
saying something like:

Jag rear spacer

Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it should
move
relative to it.

It is loaded and the hub touches it, especially when cornering. It's
what keeps the bearings upright and free from eventual collapse by
stopping the hub floating in and out. A hardened one would be good.

If the hubs touching the spacer then you've got the wrong spacer, Jags
don't normaly make shrieking noises whilst cornering.

--
Duncan Wood

In article ,
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Duncan Wood"
saying something like:

Jag rear spacer

Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it should
move relative to it.

It is loaded and the hub touches it, especially when cornering. It's
what keeps the bearings upright and free from eventual collapse by
stopping the hub floating in and out. A hardened one would be good.

If a rotating part touches it, it's no longer a shim. More likely a thrust
washer.

--
*Learn from your parents' mistakes - use birth control

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Duncan Wood"
saying something like:

Jag rear spacer

Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it
should move relative to it.

It is loaded and the hub touches it, especially when cornering. It's
what keeps the bearings upright and free from eventual collapse by
stopping the hub floating in and out. A hardened one would be good.

If a rotating part touches it, it's no longer a shim. More likely a
thrust washer.

from looking at the illustration it would appear that it is clamped up tight
and effectively becomes part of the rotating hub assembly. So there should
only be compressive forces on it from doing up the nut on the end. (which
is why I surmised it should be possible to machine the hub (29) to reduce
the length of the bit that goes through the bearings) .

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Plowman (News)"
saying something like:

If a rotating part touches it, it's no longer a shim. More likely a thrust
washer.

Exactly. It's what sets the end float on a ball bearing hub, ergo it
must be under some load when cornering (and slight amount when straight
ahead). If it was supposed to be tightened right up, then fine, any old
bit of shim metal would do (for a while).