It *is* about a classic - honest. ;-)

I've built a programmable ignition set for the old SD1 from a Jaycar kit.
The distributor is getting tired and I thought I'd give it a go as I
reckon it was never a particularly well matched advance curve for unleaded
even when perfect.

Anyway, I need a MAP sensor to feed the manifold vacuum info to the
processor. Bulkhead mounting would be nice - as would one which uses an
easily sourced plug. It needs to be analogue output working off 5 volts -
which I believe is pretty standard apart from Ford - and a 1 bar type is
fine.

--
*I don't work here. I'm a consultant

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
It *is* about a classic - honest. ;-)

I've built a programmable ignition set for the old SD1 from a Jaycar kit.
The distributor is getting tired and I thought I'd give it a go as I
reckon it was never a particularly well matched advance curve for unleaded
even when perfect.

Anyway, I need a MAP sensor to feed the manifold vacuum info to the
processor. Bulkhead mounting would be nice - as would one which uses an
easily sourced plug. It needs to be analogue output working off 5 volts -
which I believe is pretty standard apart from Ford - and a 1 bar type is
fine.


I bought a Bosch MAP sensor some years ago, a 0 281 002 119 which went
to 2 bar, for NA you could use the 0 281 230 004, this was a automotive
MAP sensor sold for aftermarket use. I don't know if the specific part
is still available or superceded as the Bosch site make finding the info
hard, maybe they removed it. It fits your requirement though of 5V
supply and analogue output. You might also look at the ones used by
Megasquirt, IIRC they would also do and last time I looked a year or so
ago were stocked by RS.

David Billington wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
It *is* about a classic - honest. ;-)

I've built a programmable ignition set for the old SD1 from a Jaycar
kit.
The distributor is getting tired and I thought I'd give it a go as I
reckon it was never a particularly well matched advance curve for
unleaded
even when perfect.

Anyway, I need a MAP sensor to feed the manifold vacuum info to the
processor. Bulkhead mounting would be nice - as would one which uses an
easily sourced plug. It needs to be analogue output working off 5
volts -
which I believe is pretty standard apart from Ford - and a 1 bar type is
fine.


I bought a Bosch MAP sensor some years ago, a 0 281 002 119 which went
to 2 bar, for NA you could use the 0 281 230 004, this was a
automotive MAP sensor sold for aftermarket use. I don't know if the
specific part is still available or superceded as the Bosch site make
finding the info hard, maybe they removed it. It fits your requirement
though of 5V supply and analogue output. You might also look at the
ones used by Megasquirt, IIRC they would also do and last time I
looked a year or so ago were stocked by RS.
Make that last part number 0 261 230 004 see here
http://www.bosch.com.au/content/lang...cification.pdf

In article ,
David Billington wrote:
You might also look at the ones used by
Megasquirt, IIRC they would also do and last time I looked a year or so
ago were stocked by RS.

Thanks for the heads up - despite using electronics suppliers I never
thought to try them.
Got exactly what I wanted from Farnell - at about 15 quid rather than the
75 or so for 'car' ones. Only difference is it has Molex connectors rather
than an automotive one.

--
*There are 3 kinds of people: those who can count & those who can't.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
It *is* about a classic - honest. ;-)

I've built a programmable ignition set for the old SD1 from a Jaycar kit.
The distributor is getting tired and I thought I'd give it a go as I
reckon it was never a particularly well matched advance curve for unleaded
even when perfect.

Anyway, I need a MAP sensor to feed the manifold vacuum info to the
processor. Bulkhead mounting would be nice - as would one which uses an
easily sourced plug. It needs to be analogue output working off 5 volts -
which I believe is pretty standard apart from Ford - and a 1 bar type is
fine.


I've used one off a Rover 827 (Honda V6 engine). This is found in a big
black plastic box with other sensors and solenoids in it, and is
connected to the inlet manifold by a length of vacuum pipe. It's easy
to remove and is physically robust. As you say, it uses a stabilised
+5V supply and has a linear transfer function up to approx 1.7 Bar.

Perhaps other EFI Rovers or Hondas from the late 80s use the same one.
--
Chris Morriss

In article ,
Chris Morriss wrote:
I've used one off a Rover 827 (Honda V6 engine). This is found in a big
black plastic box with other sensors and solenoids in it, and is
connected to the inlet manifold by a length of vacuum pipe. It's easy
to remove and is physically robust. As you say, it uses a stabilised
+5V supply and has a linear transfer function up to approx 1.7 Bar.

Perhaps other EFI Rovers or Hondas from the late 80s use the same one.

Thanks Chris, but hopefully sorted when it arrives from Farnell.
Just another question since you seem to be on the programmable ignition
wavelength - the kit has the option of a knock sensor. Worth the bother -
and any idea where it (they) fits on a Rover V-8?. And same question about
which to use?

--
He who laughs last, thinks slowest*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Just another question since you seem to be on the programmable ignition
wavelength - the kit has the option of a knock sensor. Worth the bother -
and any idea where it (they) fits on a Rover V-8?. And same question about
which to use?

Dave, std ones as used on the later DiscoII (Thor engine) and P38 rangerover
(both Gems and Thor variants) are fitted either side of the block on an
extra boss that is cast in next to and slightly above the middle core plug
on each side of the block. I think they work on a stabilised 5v supply.....
Badger.

In article ,
Badger wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
Just another question since you seem to be on the programmable
ignition wavelength - the kit has the option of a knock sensor. Worth
the bother - and any idea where it (they) fits on a Rover V-8?. And
same question about which to use?

Dave, std ones as used on the later DiscoII (Thor engine) and P38
rangerover (both Gems and Thor variants) are fitted either side of the
block on an extra boss that is cast in next to and slightly above the
middle core plug on each side of the block. I think they work on a
stabilised 5v supply..... Badger.

That was my fear that they were sort of built in. I'm thinking of
fabricating brackets that attach to the exhaust manifold fixings.

--
*Virtual reality is its own reward *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Badger wrote:


"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...

Just another question since you seem to be on the programmable
ignition wavelength - the kit has the option of a knock sensor. Worth
the bother - and any idea where it (they) fits on a Rover V-8?. And
same question about which to use?



Dave, std ones as used on the later DiscoII (Thor engine) and P38
rangerover (both Gems and Thor variants) are fitted either side of the
block on an extra boss that is cast in next to and slightly above the
middle core plug on each side of the block. I think they work on a
stabilised 5v supply..... Badger.


That was my fear that they were sort of built in. I'm thinking of
fabricating brackets that attach to the exhaust manifold fixings.


Dave,

I think the main thing is you have a good solid fixing to the block
without flexure as they're basically an acoustic pickup, you wouldn't
want possible relative movement giving false indications (noise).

In article ,
David Billington wrote:
That was my fear that they were sort of built in. I'm thinking of
fabricating brackets that attach to the exhaust manifold fixings.


Dave,

I think the main thing is you have a good solid fixing to the block
without flexure as they're basically an acoustic pickup, you wouldn't
want possible relative movement giving false indications (noise).

Indeed - I assume they're just some form of contact mic. I was thinking of
supporting it by a bracket, but actually using epoxy to stick it to the
block. But open to better suggestions. ;-)

--
*Remember not to forget that which you do not need to know.*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.