In article , SteveH
says...
Andy Dingley wrote:

On 17 May, 16:31, Conor wrote:

I used a G clamp.

On a P6? Isn't this a design where the handbrake mech means you can't
simply push them back, but have to screw them in



FFS...It does screw them in. You do it so the screwthreaded bit of the
g-clamp is acting on the bit you need to rotate and the solid bit is on
the other side of the caliper the side the piston is on. When the g
clamp is tight enough and you continue to tighten it bites into the
piston and rotates that as well.

--
Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't
looking good either. - Scott Adams

In article
,
Andy Dingley wrote:
On a P6? Isn't this a design where the handbrake mech means you can't
simply push them back, but have to screw them in

Yes. The piston which operates the pads is mechanical and linked to the
internal hydraulic piston and handbrake mechanism. When the pads are worn
out it requires several turns to re-set it and I don't see how a g-clamp
would be much help.

--
*The first rule of holes: If you are in one, stop digging!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
SteveH wrote:
Andy Dingley wrote:

On 17 May, 16:31, Conor wrote:

I used a G clamp.

On a P6? Isn't this a design where the handbrake mech means you can't
simply push them back, but have to screw them in

S'wot I thought, too.

I have the special tool for that, cost me around a tenner and is worth
it's weight in gold.

On a P6? The calipers are so awkward to get at you spend more time trying
to keep it in place than anything else. The same tool works ok on a Ford
Mk IV which has the same units but outboard.

--
*Don't use no double negatives *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article
,
Andy Dingley wrote:
On a P6? Isn't this a design where the handbrake mech means you can't
simply push them back, but have to screw them in

Yes. The piston which operates the pads is mechanical and linked to the
internal hydraulic piston and handbrake mechanism. When the pads are worn
out it requires several turns to re-set it and I don't see how a g-clamp
would be much help.


I've tried using a G-clamp on them, it doesn't work. You need the proper
piston winding tool - they're not very expensive now and very useful.

I spent about 3 hours trying to wind in the rear pistons on a new shape
Alfa GTV a couple of years ago, tried every trick and nothing would
shift 'em. Went out and bought a Sykes Pickavant piston windy tool and
it took me less than 5 minutes to sort it. Took 10 mins to do the
caliper on the other side (from wheel removal to replacement) - and that
one was a lot less free. Brilliant things. You can also buy a little
square multi-sided tool for doing the odd one, costs about £5 from most
semi-decent motor factors. If you're doing a lot of them, buy a proper
job - looks like a G-clamp, but works a lot better.

If I'd known about the proper tool when I had my P6, I'd have probably
had a decent handbrake.

--
Pete M - OMF#9
Range Rover V8 Turbo
Range Rover 4.6 HSE
"Professional Petrolhead"

In article ,
Pete M wrote:
I spent about 3 hours trying to wind in the rear pistons on a new shape
Alfa GTV a couple of years ago, tried every trick and nothing would
shift 'em. Went out and bought a Sykes Pickavant piston windy tool and
it took me less than 5 minutes to sort it. Took 10 mins to do the
caliper on the other side (from wheel removal to replacement) - and that
one was a lot less free. Brilliant things. You can also buy a little
square multi-sided tool for doing the odd one, costs about £5 from most
semi-decent motor factors. If you're doing a lot of them, buy a proper
job - looks like a G-clamp, but works a lot better.

If I'd known about the proper tool when I had my P6, I'd have probably
had a decent handbrake.

Are you saying the tool you have works on the same principle as the proper
P6 one? I'm saying that was a poor design.

However the proper tool doesn't effect the handbrake on the P6 - you have
to wind back the piston to fit new pads by whatever method. It's seizure
of the mechanism (and wrong cable adjustment) that stops it working
properly. The levers on the calipers *must* come back to their backstops
with the handbrake off for the self adjustment to work. And in perfect
condition this allows more handbrake travel than some MOT testers allow.
So people tighten the cable and f**k up the handbrake. I had to lay the
law down on more than one occasion at MOT time...

--
*Atheism is a non-prophet organization.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 17 May, 23:17, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I don't see how a g-clamp would be much help.

So it's just Doctor Drivel talking about hacksaws again.

In article
,
Andy Dingley wrote:
On 17 May, 23:17, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

I don't see how a g-clamp would be much help.

So it's just Doctor Drivel talking about hacksaws again.

Ouch. You know how to wound. Conor's not in the same class as dribble -
fortunately.

But having read his explanation of how he used it I'm still not convinced.

--
*Speak softly and carry a cellular phone *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

As I said it should turn with the fingers. Not easily - but far less
hassle than trying to get any tool in there. If it doesn't it's partially
seized, and accounts for the reputation of these handbrakes not working
well. When in good condition they are the best handbrake I've had on any
car.

I did mine a few months back with advice from this group and it wasn't
as difficult as I'd expected. I screwed them out a bit, cleaned them off
with a cloth and then screwed them right back in with my fingers. Where
they were a bit stiff to begin turning, I found it possible to push the
top with a screwdriver - it didn't need enough pressure to cause any damage.

In article ,
Willy Eckerslyke wrote:
I did mine a few months back with advice from this group and it wasn't
as difficult as I'd expected. I screwed them out a bit, cleaned them off
with a cloth and then screwed them right back in with my fingers. Where
they were a bit stiff to begin turning, I found it possible to push the
top with a screwdriver - it didn't need enough pressure to cause any
damage.

Yup. A pair of those thin but strong building gloves can save the pain. ;-)

Do you find the handbrake now extremely effective? Long travel and spongey
feeling but very powerful? Usually impresses the MOT guys on the rolling
road.

--
*Beauty is in the eye of the beer holder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 17 May, 23:09, Conor wrote:
In article , SteveH
says...

Andy Dingley wrote:

On 17 May, 16:31, Conor wrote:

I used a G clamp.

On a P6? *Isn't this a design where the handbrake mech means you can't
simply push them back, but have to screw them in

FFS...It does screw them in. *You do it so the screwthreaded bit of the
g-clamp is acting on the bit you need to rotate and the solid bit is on
the other side of the caliper the side the piston is on. When the g
clamp is tight enough and you continue to tighten it bites into the
piston and rotates that as well.

--
Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't
looking good either. - Scott Adams

G Clamp? Is that an asian version of a G cramp?