Geoff Mackenzie wrote in message
...

"Bill Davies" wrote in message
...


I wouldn't use Araldite on a joint exposed to heat cycling. A few years
ago
I used it to re-affix the plastic nozzles in several hot water taps
around
the house. Within a few months the Araldite had become brittle and was
coming away in chunks.

Interesting - a few years ago I had a leaking radiator (domestic, not
automotive) which had rusted through at a bottom corner. My bodge was to
wire brush it, which exposed several pin holes, then dip some self tappers
in Araldite and screw them in. Lasted the five or so years I lived there,
and there must have been a fair bit of heat cycling.

And I once had a hairline crack in the ally cylinder head of a Rover P4,
running from the spark plug hole to the exhaust valve seat of one cylinder,
that let compression through into the water. I used a triangular file to
open the edge of the crack and filled it with araldite. It fixed the leak
and was still good nearly 1000 miles later when I finally found a
replacement head. That must have had a fair bit of heat cycling too.

Jim

Jim Warren wrote:

I don't know the Vitesse water pump, but I have got the workshop manual for
the 2000. If the construction is similar, it proposes the following
dismantling sequence:

Ok, had a fiddle and they're not the same. Of the 3 pumps I had lying
around, only one, from a Mk1 Vitesse engine, had a nut on the end of the
pulley. With this undone, the pulley came off and the impeller and shaft
came out easily enough (from the impeller end). The seal is then easily
slid off the shaft without having to remove the impeller from the shaft
at all (thankfully avoiding the bit from your 2000 manual that sounded
the most daunting). The bearing on this pump feels OK so I won't
interfere with it.

The other two pumps (3 if I count the one on my Vitesse) from Mk2
Vitesse engines don't have any visible nuts, circlips or anything to
undo. The pulleys look to be a press fit and are too tight to shift with
anything I have in my garage. I'm hoping that once their off, the rest
will be the same as for the Mk1.

On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 10:23:56 -0000, "Bill Davies"
wrote:

I wouldn't use Araldite on a joint exposed to heat cycling.

I don't use Araldite. West Systems epoxy is _far_ better. It's also
not filled, so it's thin when I need it and I can always add an
approriate filler if I need it.

Most epoxies, including Araldite, whould withstand boiling water
temperatures. However _rapid_ Araldite is infamous (or useful) for
losing strength at these low temperatures.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 10:23:56 -0000, "Bill Davies"
wrote:

I wouldn't use Araldite on a joint exposed to heat cycling.

I don't use Araldite. West Systems epoxy is _far_ better.

And SP systems is better than West. And cheaper.

On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 16:18:22 +0000, Steve Firth
wrote:

And SP systems is better than West. And cheaper.

Where do you get it from ?

I like West because it's good (enough) and I can buy it locally. Their
"ten quid trial pack" is about a year's use for me and I like the
turnover keeping it fresh. It's also twice the volume of SP's
equivalent, for much the same price.