Samuel Clemens wrote in message
...

I had similar noise before the diff ground its self to death on the
Humber -
the oil seal on the offside halfshaft failed on a run to sunny Hunstanton
for the weekend. - and I unknowingly lost rather a lot of oil from the
back
axle over the course of some 50 miles :-(

As long as I kept the power on it ran quiet, it was only as I slowed for
the
big roundabout on the outskirt of King's Lynn that this bloody awful
grinding noise became apparent, disappearing again under load.


This sounded expensive if this was my problem, so I started with this one.
There were signs of a slight weep from the pinion oil seal, so I topped up
the level. The diff was filled to the correct level after just a small
squeeze of a 500ml bottle, so it took well under a quarter of a pint. I
can't afford to ignore a leak in view of the consequences, but clearly low
oil in the diff is not the immediate problem.

I also ran the engine and transmission with each side in turn jacked up to
make the differential work hard. There were no strange noises.

I had a close look at the drum and backplate, and there was no sign of any
polishing (but thanks for the idea Ron). One of the grub screws holding the
offside brake drum was only finger tight, but with 4 properly tightened
wheel nuts also holding the drum in place, I can't imagine this would be my
problem.

The drive shaft flange bolts were all tight (but thanks for the idea Willy).

Having sorted the nearside drive shaft where I thought the noise was coming
from, I have had a closer look at the offside one. There is no sign of wear
or damage to the wheel bearing. Sight, sound and feel all suggest that it is
perfect. The bearing housing retaining nuts are properly tightened too.

The noise only arises on bends, and the things that bends change are the
speeds of the inside and outside wheels, the sideways forces on the wheels,
the compression on the springs and hence the angle of the drive shaft. If
the diff is OK and the wheel bearings are ok, and I know the springs and
shocks are OK because I fitted new ones at Easter, then the finger surely
points at changes in the angle of the drive shaft, which puts work onto the
UJs. Or else give in the suspension arm bushes. Does anyone know the
symptoms of these being worn or soft?

Meanwhile, I have focused on the offside drive shaft. I gave it a good
shake and thought I could feel a knock, though I couldn't hear one. I am
rapidly running out of ideas, so I think I might take it off to look at
closely on a bench under a bright light, instead of laying underneath the
car with a torch.

Jim

Jim Warren wrote:

This sounded expensive if this was my problem, so I started with this one.
There were signs of a slight weep from the pinion oil seal, so I topped up
the level. The diff was filled to the correct level after just a small
squeeze of a 500ml bottle, so it took well under a quarter of a pint. I
can't afford to ignore a leak in view of the consequences, but clearly low
oil in the diff is not the immediate problem.

I don't want to open up a can of worms or hijack your thread, but are
you using GL4 or GL5 oil in the diff? Remember the saga of my Vitesse's
gearbox? I've now found that the one remaining noise is actually the
diff, and assumed it was caused by low oil due to a weeping seal, but on
changing the seal found that the level wasn't _that_ low and that what
oil there was had a rather metallic look to it. Then I noticed the
warning on Canley Classics website, checked my oil can and found I've
been running GL5 in the diff, which is reputed to disolve the thrust
washers.

"Jim Warren" wrote in message
...
Snip
Meanwhile, I have focused on the offside drive shaft. I gave it a good
shake and thought I could feel a knock, though I couldn't hear one. I am
rapidly running out of ideas, so I think I might take it off to look at
closely on a bench under a bright light, instead of laying underneath the
car with a torch.


If you are going to take the drive shaft off and can't find anything
obviously horrid in it, try putting it back on the other side of the car and
see if the noise follows it across.

Ron Robinson

Willy Eckerslyke wrote in message
...

I don't want to open up a can of worms or hijack your thread, but are
you using GL4 or GL5 oil in the diff? Remember the saga of my Vitesse's
gearbox? I've now found that the one remaining noise is actually the
diff, and assumed it was caused by low oil due to a weeping seal, but on
changing the seal found that the level wasn't _that_ low and that what
oil there was had a rather metallic look to it. Then I noticed the
warning on Canley Classics website, checked my oil can and found I've
been running GL5 in the diff, which is reputed to disolve the thrust
washers.


I have been using Shell EP90 - I was given a few tins (and a trolley jack)
when my neighbour's friend closed his one man garage a few years ago. It is
one of the recommended lubricants according to the original handbook.

PJML wrote in message
...

Don't assume that just because it feels OK when you turn the
wheel with the car jacked up that the bearing isn't worn.

I didn't just turn the wheel. I used pressure (pull top of tyre while
pushing at the bottom and vice versa, then repeat side to side) while
feeling and listening for knocks and play.
And I had remembered to have the handbrake off at the time :-)


I've had direct experience of a wheelbearing where the wear
on the outer race was only at the top - thats the bit that
takes the weight of the vehicle when it's on its wheels.

With it jacked-up, the weight of the halfshaft/hub/drum
etc. pulled the inner bearing and rollers down so they
ran on the lower, unworn part of the outer race. It all
felt perfect, but it was still noisy under load.


Noted. What I am getting is a very noticeable noise rather than a light
noise, and I would expect a loudish noise to be accompanied by some
detectable slackness. But when I have exhausted the shaft options, I might
renew the wheel bearings and see if that makes a difference.

Jim Warren wrote:
Willy Eckerslyke wrote in message
...

I don't want to open up a can of worms or hijack your thread, but are
you using GL4 or GL5 oil in the diff?

I have been using Shell EP90 - I was given a few tins (and a trolley jack)
when my neighbour's friend closed his one man garage a few years ago. It is
one of the recommended lubricants according to the original handbook.

If it's very old, it's probably GL4, but EP90 can be either, which is
the trap I fell into. I expect the book also recommends Castrol EP90,
which most certainly comes as GL4 or GL5 as a look along Halfords'
shelves will confirm.

Willy Eckerslyke wrote in message
...

If it's very old, it's probably GL4, but EP90 can be either, which is
the trap I fell into. I expect the book also recommends Castrol EP90,
which most certainly comes as GL4 or GL5 as a look along Halfords'
shelves will confirm.

Is there anything on the Shell tin that I can read to tell me whether or not
it is GL4?
And how old is "very old"?

Incidentally, the book recommends Castrol Hypoy rather than Castrol EP90.
And what brands are GL4 and GL5 free at the moment?

"Jim Warren" wrote in message
...

snip

Incidentally, the book recommends Castrol Hypoy rather than Castrol EP90.
And what brands are GL4 and GL5 free at the moment?




Castrol Hypoy is EP90 or EP80 depending on grade --- all EP oil are hypoy
oils.
When the 2000 was launched the only Castrol Hypoy grade was ep90

"R. N. Robinson" wrote in
message ...

"Jim Warren" wrote in message
...
Snip
If you are going to take the drive shaft off and can't find anything
obviously horrid in it, try putting it back on the other side of the car
and
see if the noise follows it across.

Ron Robinson



Best to avoid switching roatations of drive shafts and halfshafts or any
splined part as it can lead to reduced service life.

In article , AWM
wrote:

Sugest you forget about oil its a wild goose chase and change the right
hand rear wheel bearing -- symptoms are classic.

I concur completely. At the reasonable cost and time expenditure of changing
them both, it's daft not to.

--
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) : Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk : http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk