http://www.autobanter.co.uk A web gateway with the finest UK car related newsgroups. en Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:22:03 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/images/002/misc/rss.jpg http://www.autobanter.co.uk http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54228&goto=newpost Mon, 06 Sep 2010 01:06:21 GMT
+ACI-Dave Plowman (News)+ACI- +ADw-dave+AEA-davenoise.co.uk+AD4- wrote in message
news:51523b91efdave+AEA-davenoise.co.uk...
+AD4- It's caused me grief trying to find somewhere decent to fit the coils.
+AD4- I've ended up with them at the front of the engine roughly where the dizzy
+AD4- was - and neither Mondeo or Escort leads are quite long enough. The
+AD4- longest run is about 1 metre. I'd also be happier with new matching
+AD4- leads - and to buy two sets ain't cheap.
+AD4-

Try Fiesta leads, MK 3-4 ?.
It's what I've used on mine, they were longer than Mondeo ones...


--

Tony Bond / UncleFista

www.bradford7.co.uk

Love is like a snowmobile, speeding across the frozen tundra.
Which suddenly flips, pinning you underneath.
At night the ice-weasels come...

]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Tony \(UncleFista\) http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54228 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54227&goto=newpost Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:23:23 GMT Anyone know a source of 8mm resistive HT (spark plug) cable suitable for EDIS? The genuine Ford stuff measures at about 20K ohm per metre. Only one I could find is a spiral wound type at about 3k ohm per metre. -- *Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you. Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. Anyone know a source of 8mm resistive HT (spark plug) cable suitable for
EDIS? The genuine Ford stuff measures at about 20K ohm per metre. Only one
I could find is a spiral wound type at about 3k ohm per metre.

--
*Red meat is not bad for you. Fuzzy green meat is bad for you.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Dave Plowman (News) http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54227 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54223&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:24:19 GMT Had two of the above last weekend for a wedding- wanted both the same colour
and spec, so ended up with a 1.8 and 1.9 cdti 130 in SE spec.

Good - Interior trim, comfort, seats, stereo and climate control. Steered
well if numbly with virtually no feedback through the steering. Very quiet
at speed and the wing mirrors were actually usuable (see "bad"). 1.9 cdti
has plenty of go, even for the 130, from 1800rpm upwards, that didnt tail
off til nearly 5000rpm. Managed 50mpg average!

Comfy in the back according to Bridesmaids.

Bad - VERY deep sills, and figure ugging seats, so once you were in, that
was it. Almost needed a crane to get out. Stupid auto wipers were either
intermittent or flat out. Seemed afew days behind the actual rain. Auto
lights stayed resolutely on running lights even in dark torrential downpour
= dash in darkness, and invisable to other road users. Back window like a
letterbox. NO parking sensors even on the SE ! 18's looked nice, but already
kerbed to buggery on a 5000mile car.

1.8 petrol severely dangerous- absolutely no power (apparently 140ps?!?) at
all until you are caning it. Hardly surprising considering the weight of the
thing. 6th gear pointless until 80mph. MPG on the same route as the cdti -
28 !

RRP - £22k. Verdict = buy a Mondeo.

Tim..

]]> uk.rec.cars.modifications (Car Modifications) Tim.. http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54223 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54224&goto=newpost Sat, 04 Sep 2010 09:30:41 GMT Hi all, I am looking for UK right hand drive offside front (right, drivers side) wheel hub and bearings for 1980 V reg 2.0 Petrol LT28 Camper Van. Has anybody got one or can suggest where I might source one. Thanks in advance enquirer Hi all, I am looking for UK right hand drive offside front (right,
drivers side) wheel hub and bearings for 1980 V reg 2.0 Petrol LT28
Camper Van. Has anybody got one or can suggest where I might source
one.
Thanks in advance
enquirer
]]> uk.rec.cars.vw.watercooled (VW Water-Cooled Cars) enquirer http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54224 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54222&goto=newpost Thu, 02 Sep 2010 18:12:07 GMT Hi, Fairly new to this! I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport which came with an installed Nokia CK-7W Advanced Car Kit hands free thing which worked from the day I had the car, really impressed. It starts up when I turn the ignition over which is great. Hi,

Fairly new to this!

I have a 2006 Ford Focus Sport which came with an installed Nokia
CK-7W Advanced Car Kit hands free thing which worked from the day I
had the car, really impressed.

It starts up when I turn the ignition over which is great.

Recently, I've bought an iPhone car charger and when trying to put it
in the 12v power socket it seemed to almost fuse or short the socket.

Since this has happened today, my handsfree is no longer working!

Any ideas what has happened and how to fix it?

Thanks in advance!
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Joe PAIN http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54222 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54221&goto=newpost Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:55:08 GMT I was driving along this morning when I spotted a car comming towards me
suddenly start spewing clouds of blue-white smoke. As it neared, I realised
it was an NSU RO80. Judging from the odd whining noise it made as it past
me, it still had a rotary engine.

It's amazing how such an old car can still look contemporary.

(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi..._Ro80_1975.jpg)

Way ahead of its time (stylistically at least). Mechanically it could be
argued that the Wankel engine was a bit of a dead end.

Tim


]]> uk.rec.cars.misc (General Car Discussions) http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54221 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54220&goto=newpost Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:15:35 GMT Has anybody found with these that the climate control takes a while
from when you start the key to actually cooling quickly or heating?

For example, outside temperature 25 degrees climate set at 21 degrees,
you start the engine and get cool air, but only very slowly, it takes
until the car reaches 70 on the temp guage before it goes "Oh right
it's actually quite hot!" and kicks in the air con much more, almost
as if an invisible switch is tripped when the car is up to a certain
temp?

However if I manually overide the system or drop the temp to 14
degrees the desired temp is reached almost instantantly. Similar in
the morning if it's cold I find setting the temp to 30 degrees gets
the car blowing hot air much quicker than if I had just left the
control at 21 degrees.


T_Raymond

]]> uk.rec.cars.misc (General Car Discussions) T_Raymond http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54220 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54218&goto=newpost Wed, 01 Sep 2010 06:11:45 GMT
Just picked up a replacement 3.8 engine for Poorly Jag [1] and it has an
electronic ignition set up in the distributor - does anyone know who
manufactured it?

http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/jagign/

The little black box has a cloth sleeved cable with two spade connectors
at just the right length to reach the coil and that's all I can make out.

Another thing, do the core plugs look recent?


[1]
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/imag...ng/jag_eng.jpg
http://www.sweller.dynalias.org/imag...piston_no1.jpg

--
Simon
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) sweller http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54218 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54217&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 22:23:33 GMT Am buying a VW golf 5 door estate car Thursday.

On seller's V5C, its stated to be a VW golf estate 5 door 1.9 litre TDI SE
100PS 2002.

When sorting out insurnace, according to the insurance database, giving the
reg no says its a golf GL TDI, no mention of a SE or 100PS or PD (pumpe
dusse). Searching around on the net for Golf GL's indicate a earlier model
year than 2002. so it may be the insurnace data base is wrong,

If its really a 100PS TDI PD engine, it should then make the engine code be
ATD or AXR.

Question is which engine code for a golf estate SE? it has climatronic and
hence air conditioning.

I can then look under the bonnet as part of my due diligence before parting
with my hard earned cash.

Regards,

Stephen.


]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Stephen http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54217 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54214&goto=newpost Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:12:17 GMT Does anyone own or know of a smart charger that goes into charging cycle the moment mains power is applied, rather than needing to press buttons first like my Lidl one does. Must be 3 stage modern smart charger, not old fashioned transformer and rectifier type. Reason I want this is because I do not use my car for many weeks at a time and I leave battery charger connected to battery most of... Does anyone own or know of a smart charger that goes into charging
cycle the moment mains power is applied, rather than needing to press
buttons first like my Lidl one does. Must be 3 stage modern smart
charger, not old fashioned transformer and rectifier type.

Reason I want this is because I do not use my car for many weeks at a
time and I leave battery charger connected to battery most of time
(car neg disconnected). When I go away I cut power to garage and when
I come home I switch on power again but would like the battery to
start charging without me having to go out to garage and mess about
with pressing buttons. For complex reasons its not always easy to get
into garage and would be handy if I could find a charger that starts
the moment it gets mains power. Any ideas?

Rockingrabbit
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Rockingrabbit http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54214 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54213&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Aug 2010 18:31:55 GMT According to my insurers that is.

I've bought a digger which can be towed behind a car. So I needed to fit
a towing ball and electrics. This according to my insurers is "modifying
the car" so I had to declare it to them, they're getting back to me with
news about if it will cost me and if so how much.

I was going to go for the basic towing flange, but apparently that won't
work because I have reversing sensors. So I had to get the expensive
detachable tow ball version. For some reason there is no simply flange
to detachable conversion. Why not? It seems like a doddle to do.

And I was planning to use the cheapest electric package bit apparently
that won't work because of Canbus electrics so I had to get a little
black box. Apparently Jeep used to make a plug-in electrical package and
the socket was easy to find behind the trim. However they pulled that
from the market so no easy plug-in lead available. Also they don't sell
the proprietary plug to fit the proprietary socket.

I ended up clipping off the plug and making crimp connections to the
bare ends.

All done, but Thule turn out be big fat lying *******s. Their
instructions say "fitting time about 1 hour". It took around eight. At
one point, following the instructions carefully, I found myself trying
to hold 25Kg up with one had while slipping in four bolts to support the
cross-member. Also one needs hands like a very small monkey in order to
reach behind the bumper to do up the bolts. Special spanners are
essential and despite the torque settings being given in the
instructions there's no way of getting a torque wrench on to two of the
bolts because they are fouled by the bodywork.

They also don't mention the need to cut off two over-long bolts on the
spare wheel carrier that foul the bracing struts. They also didn't
supply all the washers (plate and spring) that are listed in the
instructions.

Any road up, all working now. Best invention is the trailer plug that
has LEDs in it to show that the connections were all made properly.
Other bad thing was that testing the connections with a volt meter
seemed to upset Canbus so I had to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes
to reset the PCM. All seems to be fine now.

The fitment looks pretty good. It's low down on the bumper and with the
towing ball out looks relatively unobtrusive.


Hmmm I could buy a caravan.
]]> uk.rec.cars.modifications (Car Modifications) Steve Firth http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54213 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54211&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:54:45 GMT 1999 1.8 zetec Mk2 Mondeo. Had this problem since I bought it a year
ago. Revs drop slowly when I come of accelerator or changing gear.

If I'm in 3rd gear about 1300-1500 rpm and come off accelerator. Revs
hardly drop for 3-5 seconds and either forced to wait until they very
slowly fall or have to change down or brake to reduce speed. Very
tiring to drive around town.

It did improve it very slightly by cleaning air intake butterfly. Had
some black goo around butterfly edges. Cleaning with carb cleaner
helped and gives me some feeling of engine braking for some of the
time, but revs still dropping very slowly when I come off accelerator.
Drives a bit like a 1970's Ford auto gearbox. Appears to coast when I
come off accelerator.

Shows no error codes on handheld tester. Not been on Ford workshop
computer.

Rockingrabbit
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Rockingrabbit http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54211 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54210&goto=newpost Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:27:45 GMT Merc=broken. Rental company chucks me a 2.0CDTI Astra SRI.

Good bits? Engine. Quite perky. Nice dials on the dash. Nice interior
illumination. Lots of grip. Looks nice on 18s.

Bad bits? Seat base too high. Steering lightness ruins handling. Can't
feel changes in road surfact through steering. Monster torquesteer in
second. Gearbox still as slow and sloppy as astras always have been.
Lots of wind noise at speed, though that helps mask the engine noise.

]]> uk.rec.cars.modifications (Car Modifications) Tim S Kemp http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54210 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54209&goto=newpost Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:49:18 GMT Following up on my Focus 2.0 TDCi issues, I changed the fuel filter
today in the hope that a new filter/seal would stop the air which is
being drawn into my fuel line somewhere. It was a pig to bleed the
system afterwards and it didn't fix the problem.

Every 30 seconds or so, I'm getting about 2-3 seconds worth of air
bubbles coming out of the fuel filter. Unfortunately, the line from the
tank to the filter is not clear so I can't see if there are air bubbles
coming into the filter. In response to Mr C's suggestion, I made sure
the tank was completely full.

The thing is, I can't hear the fuel pump running. I turned the ignition
on (but engine off) and lifted the rear seat and listened at the top of
the tank but I can't hear anything. I have checked the fuel pump fuse
and its fine. Should I be able to hear the pump running?

--
Paul Giverin

My Photos:- www.pbase.com/vendee
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) Paul Giverin http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54209 http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54208&goto=newpost Sun, 29 Aug 2010 17:27:29 GMT Hi All, does anyone know where I could find the code for Blaupunkt PH/1 as fitted to a 1998 Citroen Xantia only readable number on the radio itself is 96 260 240 80 Any ideas? Or Am I off to the Citroen dealer on Tuesday (or one of the many car audio shops in Slough?) Hi All,

does anyone know where I could find the code for Blaupunkt PH/1 as
fitted to a 1998 Citroen Xantia

only readable number on the radio itself is 96 260 240 80

Any ideas? Or Am I off to the Citroen dealer on Tuesday (or one of the
many car audio shops in Slough?)

Cheers

--
Mike P
]]> uk.rec.cars.maintenance (Car Maintenance) http://www.autobanter.co.uk/showthread.php?t=54208